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Random Restaurant Review: Elio al Mare, The Gulf Coast of Mexico

Submitted by Jillian on May 28, 2009 – 1:58 pm2 Comments

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Have you ever imagined being an expatriate somewhere fabulous? In the daytime you sweat, you write or paint, later, in a liminal hour you meet friends at undistinguished cafes to drink and debate. Due to unfair first world biases and expectations the reality of it isn’t always how you envision a life abroad, unfettered, inspired, inebriated. Except when it is. When I need to feel like the protagonist I aspire to be, I head East of Progreso, to Elio al Mare, a little Italian refuge in Mexico.

It was 115 degrees at the beach yesterday so for dinner we decided to meet a few friends at our favorite restaurant on the water. When we arrived the sun was setting, a sea breeze blew, and we were bathed in the most romantic light. It is a dream within a dream, where they serve shrimp wrapped in bacon.

The most charming chef and proprietor this side of Paradise, Elio himself greets you and ushers you to a palapa-covered patio. He brings a bottle of Lambrusco or Chianti and you are transported to another era. Unbidden, he brings bruschetta or bread with creamy mushroom and fish dips, followed by salads, Caprese with capers, and avocado and tomato, more wine and then the sumptuous shrimp that are as earthy and briny as the Gulf itself.

The fresh pasta is always outstanding and last night’s winners were the homemade ravioli, tender and oozing sweet spinach and ricotta and the buttery and ribbon-like fettuccine tossed in a creamy walnut sauce. Local fish, usually grouper, cooked in a savory pizziola sauce is another favorite with our crowd. Sipping sambuca or grappa in a postprandial haze you are completely sated and content. The stars are rising. Your belly is full. A warm breeze lulls you into a dreamy state. For a moment this decadent, exotic life is everything you wished it to be.

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2 Comments »

  • Susan says:

    You’re spot on with your review of Elio’s. We went there a few nights ago, and it was the perfect dining experience. My husband is a Foodie (my assessment, not his), and it was by far, the best meal we’ve had while dining out during our two plus week trip to the Yucatan. In fact, we leave for home tomorrow, and we’ve already decided that we’re going back to Progreso tonight for one more taste of pasta bliss. I loved the spinich ravioli, drenched in creamy goodness.

    Hmm. And, I keep wondering, why I haven’t lost any weight during this sweatcation. I’ll blame Elio.

  • Malcolm says:

    Thank you Susan…I wish we had seen this comment sooner, we would have joined you!

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