Mussels vs Muscles: An American in America
“Would you like a free sample of Bivalve, Abercrombie’s newest scent for men?” *
We ate a lot of shellfish in Maine. We scarfed dozens of Pemaquid oysters and buckets of tiny, briny clams, softish-shelled lobsters stuffed and steamed, myriad mussels in wonderful broth, chowder at Cappy’s and sushi at Suzuki. We would have had more haddock and a $9.99 lobster roll from the agency liquor store/convenience mart, but there was a Wasse’s hot dog hole to fill and a few simple meals comprised solely of dill pickles and horseradish cheddar. It was, for the most part, a feast of coastal pleasures washed down with Cold River Vodka, earthy and invigorating.
When I wasn’t destroying mollusks with my bare hands and digestive juices I was either at the gym or striding across the snowy greens at the Samoset Resort on the Bay, a sublime setting in any season. I swam beside the eldery in the very pleasant heated pool; I did my jerky vertical dance on the elliptical machine, singing aloud to Martha and the Vandellas and Lady Gaga; and I took a total body sculpting class with the kindergarten dictator. Many silent, sweaty tears were shed upon my yoga mat with every fresh set of lady push ups.
It was a fairly well-balanced endeavor overall: for what I consumed I compensated and when I was full I came home. Now we are entering the slimming time. Abandon all carbs, ye who enter here: down through hell we go.
*Adapted from a joke my husband made at the mall. America!


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[...] article, but they do recommend Cappy’s Chowder House, where Malcolm and I enjoyed a very cozy meal. And the thing they don’t say is that when you drive down into the village, past French and [...]